I uncover that screw-capped reds, significantly fuller-bodied Australian shiraz and cabernet, age reasonably extra slowly with screw caps, so why trouble cellaring screw-capped wines?
— T.M., Bondi Junction, NSW
I uncover little distinction between wines aged with a screw cap and folks beneath a terrific cork. But not all corks are good, and the incidence of cork-related oxidation and TCA taint is unacceptably extreme. If I had been a winemaker, I’d haven’t any hesitation in banning all corks.
Obviously, all wines are completely totally different: parts equivalent to grape choice, space, winemaker and winemaking strategies result in large variations. It’s unattainable to say all wines will most likely be larger beneath a screw cap, nonetheless for my money, it’s method ahead of cork. I’ve opened many aged purple wines with screw caps (along with Moss Wood, Henschke, Penfolds and Cullen) they normally have aged very properly. I agree that they’re sometimes brisker than cork-sealed wines, which isn’t any unhealthy issue to me, nonetheless others may disagree.
What I actually like about mature purple wines is a mixture of aged complexity along with a stage of freshness. If you’ll be capable to nonetheless fashion the fruit, along with the mellow bottle-aged traits, that’s the place peak pleasure lies. So, I don’t agree that wines age too slowly beneath a screw cap, nor that there isn’t any stage cellaring them on the concept they acquired’t change. It is true that, on frequent, wine will age further slowly, and resulting from this truth for longer, beneath a screw cap, nonetheless it’s as a result of the everyday consists of wines which have aged prematurely resulting from poor corks.
These days, winemakers have a great deal of different in wadding – the disc of silvery stuff beneath the aluminium cap – which makes the airtight seal. Some let in a small, managed amount of oxygen, as most corks do; others are a lot much less air-permeable. Usually, the cheaper wines have a cap that enables further air because of they aren’t meant for prolonged storage.
I as quickly as met a winemaker from an Alsace winery who, when requested if his company was considering screw caps, replied inside the unfavorable, together with, “Ah, but zee wines do not age under zee screw cap.” He had clearly under no circumstances tasted a terrific, aged, screw-capped Australian riesling. There are tons spherical: riesling makers have been using screw caps given that 2000 traditional.
Got a drinks question for Huon Hooke? thefullbottle@goodweekend.com.au
